When you learn to surf, you should know that it's not only about you riding a wave. More so, your entire attitude toward life will change immediately.
As a beginner, you should know this, surfing is one of the most intricate sports in the world. It is quite a challenge to enjoy first achievements. Wipeouts become your best friend, but triumphs come little by little, so don't get discouraged.
Surfing is not just about tan lines or hot booties. When you make your way from a beginner to an intermediate level, you should know how to position your body on the surfboard. First of all, close your legs. Most beginners just dangle their feet over the tail – wrong! Watch the other surfers, do it like them, put your feet together.
When you make it out to green waves, there are several facts you definitely should know. The 'lineup 'is the place where surfers wait for waves. Always face the ocean's horizon! There are sets. They usually come in pairs, triplets, or groups (hence the name "sets"), and they can be as unpredictable as night and day.
As mentioned, waves are natural, strong, and wild entities that have their own rules. Even if you don't see it from the beach, most of the time, there are currents, rips, and surges, moving in different directions.
Don't drop in! The worst thing you could do in the water is to "steal" someone's wave. If you don't have priority on the wave (sitting closer to the breaking part of the wave), then stop paddling for it. There are some rules in the water, which you could call surf ethics.
The right surf equipment is critical. Different kinds of waves demand different types of boards. From mellow to steep waves – there's a perfect board for everything. As a beginner, choosing the right surfboard can make the difference between catching 15 or 0 waves during a session.